A short one this week. I wrote this in September right after Hurricane Larry. I spent the morning trying to trim and re-write it into a spot where it felt OK to share. Here it is. I spent a chunk hours in the water this week as Hurricane Larry sent long period swell to all the nooks and crannies of the East Coast. Places that are rarely surfable were throwing some of the glassiest head high waves I’ve ever seen. Long period is a mesmerizing thing. To think that a hurricane sitting hundreds of miles out to sea can send tightly clustered sets of waves separated by 8-15 minutes in beautiful uniform patterns is enough to make me want to believe in God.
Hurricane Larry
Hurricane Larry
Hurricane Larry
A short one this week. I wrote this in September right after Hurricane Larry. I spent the morning trying to trim and re-write it into a spot where it felt OK to share. Here it is. I spent a chunk hours in the water this week as Hurricane Larry sent long period swell to all the nooks and crannies of the East Coast. Places that are rarely surfable were throwing some of the glassiest head high waves I’ve ever seen. Long period is a mesmerizing thing. To think that a hurricane sitting hundreds of miles out to sea can send tightly clustered sets of waves separated by 8-15 minutes in beautiful uniform patterns is enough to make me want to believe in God.