Introduction

Some of these places are off the beaten track, even for cow herders. Bring a Thai and Lao phrasebook, and expect to use the latter more than expected since most khon Isaan speak a Lao dialect while following a Lao flavour of Theravada Buddhism. They also spend loads of time with an intensely spiced cuisine, ubiquitous on both sides of the border, bursting with freshwater fish, aromatic herbs and fresh chillies tempered by sticky rice. Don’t be surprised when the famously hospitable people insist you have a taste.

In the mid-19th century, the people and culture of Isaan were largely indistinguishable from those on the left bank of the Mekong in what’s now the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, with its capital at Vientiane. Back then it was all part of Siam, former name of the Kingdom of Thailand still rooted in Bangkok. Initially based up the Mekong at Luang Prabang, the Lan Xiang Kingdom controlled much of the valley from the mid 14th to 18th centuries, and prior to that, around a millennium ago, the Khmer oversaw long stretches from its centre at Angkor. No matter which of these powers were around, the people who lived along the Mekong tended to view it not as a political or cultural boundary, but simply as a big and abundant river that could be crossed without much hassle.

That changed when the French demarcated much of the Mekong as a border with Siam when annexing Laos into its colonies in 1893, part of the aftermath of the Pak Nam Incident in Bangkok. Siam held onto Isaan in a deal that marked an enduring border.

Later, the American secret war on Laos—and the related Vietnam War and Lao Civil War—took hundreds of thousands of lives and triggered major social and economic changes, ending with the 1975 communist takeover and downfall of the Lao monarchy. Meanwhile, the United States heavily influenced the Thai side of the Mekong via military bases and related aid throughout these wars. In Laos, some of the roughly 270 million cluster bombs dropped by American planes keep killing each year.

These days Thailand is the more developed of the pair, with better-value accommodation in many of its Mekong river towns. Some travellers prefer the “wild west” feel of Laos. Differences break down in the hinterland, where Lao-speaking folks on both sides trade and mingle as neighbours and family. Hundreds of villages dot the Mekong—don’t be surprised if your fondest memories come in places whose names you won’t remember.

While our four-week route sticks to the Thai side of the border over roughly 900 km, much may be done on the Lao side and you could always cover some stretches in Thailand and others in Laos. With that in mind, we mention worthwhile spots in Laos accessible via any of the “Friendship Bridge” border crossings. If you’re really looking to explore Isaan, combine this with a pair of routes out of Bangkok to create a two-month loop taking you through 20 Northeast Thai provinces—a great way to use up a tourist visa.

Getting around

The train runs from Bangkok up to Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) and from there you can cruise north to Nong Khai, or east to Ubon Ratchathani. You can also fly between Bangkok and the provincial airports in Phitsanulok, Loei, Khon Kaen, Sakhon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and Ubon Ratchathani. On the Lao side, airports stand in Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Savannakhet and Pakse. Expect to pay more if flying via Laos.

Every Isaan provincial capital has a bus station with reliable onward transport to Bangkok, around the Isaan region and sometimes into Laos. Remote towns and national parks can be more of an adventure to reach via slow local buses, songthaews or tuk tuks. Overall, Isaan’s attitude is so laid back that travel tends to be enjoyable, even when half a dozen motorbike taxi boys have to join forces to explain the bus you want doesn’t leave ‘til morning.

Thailand’s Mekong region is conducive to a rental car, available online and in person at the airports and from local agencies (they generally cannot be brought across the border). Motorbike rental is available in some, but not all, of Isaan’s larger towns. Mekong trips on two wheels are a blast, though be sure to have a Thai and/or international motorcycle license before shoving off. Read this first if you’re thinking of riding unlicensed.

If hopping back and forth across the river (i.e. the border) often, beware that as of late 2018 Thailand allows only two free 30-day visa-exempt stays per calendar year for travellers crossing overland—a rule which is especially noteworthy for anyone exploring the Thai/Lao Mekong valley. If you’ll be crossing into Thailand more than twice over the course of this trip, even if only jumping to Laos to look for that Beer Lao “golden” variety, you’ll have to grab a Thai tourist visa in Vientiane or Savannakhet (or fly from, say, Vientiane to Bangkok) for the third entry to Thailand. Use those crossings wisely.

As for Laos, most travellers have no problems entering on as many visas on arrival as they like, but the 1,500 baht fee piles up. Don’t be surprised to pay an additional 100-baht fee for “processing” or “after hours” to the Lao border guards. Also, bring the name and address of a guesthouse, as travellers who have no idea where they’ll stay might be charged yet again.

When to go

Our favourite periods for Isaan are May/June when the paddies are being sewn, and during rice harvest in October/November. December through February is dry and relatively cool, but the landscape becomes parched and the paddies sport ugly brown stubble later in that period. April can be excruciatingly hot and is the worst month for Isaan, unless you’re coming specifically for Songkran. Other key festivals include Yasothon’s Rocket Festival, Dan Sai’s wild Phi Ta Khon around late June and Ubon’s dazzling candle parade in July. Reserve rooms well in advance for festival time.

Day by day

Day 1: Phitsanulok to Dan Sai
Perhaps you’re sitting in a cafe in Sukhothai, scratching your head as you look over a map. Or maybe you’re clinking south from Chiang Mai on the train to Bangkok, thinking about calling the airline to put off that flight back home. Just make your way to the transport hub of Phitsanulok, and it will all work out. Find a bus that goes east, making a stop in Dan Sai.

At the footstep of upper Isaan, this mountain-rimmed village is best known for its scary Phi Ta Khon outfits and the related festival—do make it a priority if you’re in the vicinity around June. One of the town’s striking wats sports a chedi established in the 1500s as a display of mutual respect between the Lan Xiang (Lao) and Ayutthaya (Siamese/Thai) kingdoms. The friendliness didn’t last—Siam invaded Vientiane two centuries later—but the chedi at Dan Sai continues to symbolize the Lao-Thai identity of the Isaan people.