Introduction

What follows is a four-week itinerary covering some of Eastern Thailand’s hotspots along with less-travelled points that we think are worth a look. A swing through the smallest of Thailand’s five main regions makes perfect sense for travellers entering or departing Cambodia via the coastal border crossing at Had Lek / Koh Kong. But the East is also worth considering as a round trip out of Bangkok, which is never more than a half-day bus ride from the mainland centres.

Rather than thinking of this as a rigid plan, view it more like a menu and adapt it to fit your tastes and time restrictions. We packed a lot in and the pace will be too swift for some. At least one night on six different islands may be overdoing it, but we’ve included all of the destinations that we think are worthwhile. However, if we had more limited time, we’d cut Ko Si Chang and/or Ko Samet and focus more on Chanthaburi and the Chang archipelago.

Getting around

Few travellers use the East’s two airports—U-Tapao Rayong-Pattaya and Trat—because fares tend to be high and the region is well connected by cheap buses and minibuses (vans) out of Bangkok, where Ekkamai bus terminal has the widest range of departures. Some destinations can also be reached from Morchit bus terminal and Floor 1 of Suvarnabhumi Airport. Once you’re in the region, jumping around by bus or minibus is easy enough. You’ll find detailed info in our destination transport pages (like this one for Chanthaburi), and some fares may be booked online through Travelfish partner 12Go Asia.

Available for (usually) cheap rides on fixed routes and pricier charters for day trips, songthaews have you covered for local excursions around many destinations. A rental car is worth the splurge if you’ll focus on the mainland and Ko Chang, which is accessible by frequent car ferries out of Laem Ngop. Scooter (motorbike) rental is also widely available—read up on the insurance implications if you’re thinking of riding without a license. Also keep in mind that Ko Chang’s steep switchback roads make it one of the most dangerous places in Thailand for inexperienced scooter riders.

When to go

November to February provides dry and relatively cool weather, though rooms in the islands are most expensive, and often booked up in advance, from mid December through February. Away from the sea breeze, the mainland swelters during the March to May hot season, but this is not a bad time for islands. From June through October, expect rain on most days and rough seas causing island-hopping boats to stop running in the Chang archipelago. Rainy season riptides cause yearly deaths—look for red warning flags on beaches before you dive in. May to September is however the time to sample the East’s famously delicious fruits, including durian, mangosteen and salacca.

Day by day

Day 1: Bangkok to Sri Racha
Don’t be deterred if you get a late start out of Bangkok—it’s only a 100 km bus ride southeast to Sri Racha (or Si Racha), a buzzing coastal town drawing few travellers. After settling into a hotel, watch fishers return to wooden jetties and wander about the town. At dusk, wander the seafront park and night markets to sample some of the area’s bountiful seafood. Of course, coming to Sri Racha without sampling the eponymous hot sauce would be a crime.

Side trip option: Chachoengsao
If you have extra time and would like to delve deeper into non-touristy Thailand, make a stop in Chachoengsao on the way between Bangkok and Sri Racha. The provincial capital is well known domestically for traditional Thai sweets and a priceless Buddha image that was supposedly discovered floating down the Bang Pakong River in centuries past. If you’re passing through on a weekend, pop over to the floating market in the riverside village of Bang Khla.

Days 2-4: Ko Si Chang
Ko Si Chang is geographically the closest island to Bangkok, a fact that made it the obvious choice for hosting King Chulalongkorn’s seaside retreat in the late 19th century—at least until French colonial warships ended the fun. His exquisite teakwood mansion was dismantled and moved to the Thai capital, but you can still visit the grounds to peruse the remaining structures. The few foreign visitors tend to be more interested in Si Chang’s photogenic fishing villages, viewpoints and surrounding isles that can be reached on day trips. Enjoy the seafood on Si Chang, as prices tend to be higher on islands drawing more foreign tourists.