Published: 7th August, 2019
Dig your toes into powdery white sand. Trek through old-growth rainforest. Party all night and then retreat to a quiet beach shack. Snorkel or dive majestic seascapes, and get used to cruising by longtail boat. You can do all of this and more on a trip from east coast to west coast in southern Thailand.
A good choice for first timers to southern Thailand, this four-week itinerary covers many of the most popular islands and mainland points on both the Gulf of Thailand (east) and Andaman Sea (west) coasts. These spots are popular for a reason—they’re all very beautiful in places—but popularity brings its share of issues such as overdevelopment, overcrowding and damage to the natural environment. With this in mind, we’ve added possible side trips to less-travelled alternatives that won’t take you too far off the main route.
Though we allotted a few days to most destinations with the aim of offering suggestions for each of them, we’d pick perhaps two to four islands unless time is no issue. Rather than tumbling from one island to the next just to cross them off a list, be sure to carve out some time to relax. Don’t be afraid to cut entire destinations as you narrow down options that seem best suited to your interests. Flexibility is key—you’ll only know how much you love a given beach, or even a specific bungalow joint, once you get there.
Airports are found in Chumphon, Surat Thani and Ko Samui on the east coast; and in Krabi and Phuket on the west. Minibuses and some regular buses link all of the mainland points, while reliable ferries access the islands both from the mainland and from island to island in the case of Ko Tao, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Samui. Specifics on transport options are found in our transport pages for each destination, such as this one for Surat Thani and this one from Bangkok. Many of these legs can also be booked online at 12Go Asia.
On the islands travellers often get around on hired scooters. If you choose to do this, please make the time to learn to ride and get a license in your home country—this will make you a safer rider (everyone benefits!)—and always, always, always wear a helmet. If you choose not to do this, you may want to read up on the travel insurance implications of doing neither. On the larger islands, car hire is also commonly available, as are a variety of forms of public transport.
More than any other region of Thailand, it’s important to pay attention to the weather when hitting the south. Ideally this trip would start after 1st December, once the east coast is likely to have dried out from the storms that rip through in October and November, and finish up before the monsoon begins on the west coast around May. Expect the thickest crowds and highest room rates around holidays like Christmas and Chinese New Year. Thailand specific holiday periods, especially Songkran, can also be very busy periods on the islands and making reservations in advance can be a prudent decision.
Travelling in wet season to the islands covered in this itinerary is still possible—accommodation will nearly all be open as usual—and you may even be able to snap up some excellent off–season deals on a room. Do bear in mind though, that not only will there be a significant chance of at least some rain most days, the seas will also be rougher meaning that on occasion ferries may be delayed or cancelled, as may be snorkelling trips and other seaborne excursions. Be wary of ferry to airport transfers for a long haul flight home in peak wet season as tightly wrapped itineraries can fall over badly once a ferry gets cancelled. On the other hand if your ideal beach holiday is you curled up in a hammock with a book and thundering storms outside, go for it!
Day 1: Bangkok to Chumphon
Options for this leg include train, plane and public bus, plus all-in services like Lomprayah that include a bus from Bangkok and ferry to Ko Tao on a single ticket. Once in Chumphon you’ll find a typical southern Thai capital town with a great night market, cheap rooms and lots of travel agents ready to sell you tickets to Ko Tao. The province’s empty mainland beaches are worth a look if you have an extra day to kill.
If you have more time and want to step off the well-trodden track, consider slowing down and doing the Bangkok to Chumphon route the slow way. Anyone skipping Ko Tao should also probably skip Chumphon and continue south to Surat Thani, launching into the islands from there instead.
Book now: Book your bus/flight/train connection from Bangkok to Chumphon with 12Go and browse guesthouses and hotels in Chumphon with Agoda and Booking.
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Reviewed by
David Luekens
David Luekens first came to Thailand in 2005 when Thai friends from his former home of Burlington, Vermont led him on a life-changing trip. Based in Thailand since 2011, he spends much of his time eating in Bangkok street markets and island hopping the Andaman Sea. David is also the founder of Thai Island Quest—a newsletter focused on covering every island and beach in Thailand.
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