Introduction

We took off on a ten-day motorbike trip around the region, one of the most exciting, exhilarating and fun trips we’ve undertaken in Cambodia. It’s also one of the rawest. There is not always much in the way of tourist infrastructure, especially in places like Anlong Veng — though that will soon be changing, thanks to the work of Documentation Centre of Cambodia (DC-CAM).

Beng Mealea and Koh Ker

Assuming you’re starting from Siem Reap, you could catch a bus or mini-van directly to Anlong Veng but that would mean missing out on two gorgeous temple sites along the way, namely Beng Mealea and Koh Ker Temples. If you’re not operating under your own steam, it’s seriously worth making this a discrete journey, returning to Siem Reap to continue with the rest of your exploration of the region.

Beng Mealea is virtually the archetypal jungle temple, with all of the adventure suggested by Ta Prohm, yet significantly fewer crowds. Except for the exterior wall and some internal structures, much of the temple has completely toppled, meaning you need to climb over enormous carved stones in order to explore. Good shoes are a must, as twisted ankles are a bugger to treat out here.

Further along, Koh Ker is a completely different experience; a ziggurat with views across vast swathes of northwestern Cambodia is the highlight of a huge city complex, with many sanctuaries still standing among the forest that has grown up around them.

With an early start, you can make it to Beng Mealea and Koh Ker, and then on to Anlong Veng and Choam all in the same day. If you prefer to take things at a more leisurely pace, there is a small but friendly guesthouse a couple of hundred metres before the ticket booth for Koh Ker.